Introduction: Exploring the Authentic Charms of Shonan, Where Sea and History Intersect
What scenery comes to mind when you hear ‘Shonan’? Sun-drenched beaches, coastal roads bustling with surfers, and ocean views of Mount Fuji. However, Shonan’s allure extends far beyond that. From ancient caves where monks once trained to a historic island visited by Minamoto no Yoritomo for victory prayers, and mountains offering panoramic views of the sea and starry skies, Shonan hides a ‘deeper side’ that becomes more profound the more you learn about it.
This article carefully selects five must-visit spots for travelers, from short-term visitors to repeaters, to enjoy Shonan 120%. Rather than just a catalog-style introduction, we delve deeply into practical tips for exploring, the best times to visit, and the historical romance etched into each location.
Enoshima Aquarium
📍 Address: 2-19-1 Katasekaigan, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0035, Japan
The Enoshima Aquarium (nicknamed ‘Enosui’), often considered the gateway to Enoshima tourism, is a classic Shonan spot enjoyable for everyone, from families to couples. This aquarium actually boasts a prestigious history as Japan’s first modern aquarium, with its predecessor, the ‘Old Enoshima Aquarium,’ opening in 1954. It has a dramatic origin story: Hisaku Hori, former president of Nikkatsu, was so moved by the beautiful sunset view of Mount Fuji and Enoshima that he immediately decided to begin construction.
The main highlight is the ‘Sagami Bay Big Tank,’ the largest in the aquarium. Standing at 9 meters tall, the tank replicates the actual ecosystem of Sagami Bay, and the sight of tens of thousands of sardines swimming in formation is truly spectacular. Additionally, the ‘live shirasu’ (whitebait) exhibit, which can only be seen here, offers a precious experience unique to Shonan, a famous shirasu producing region.
Furthermore, Enosui leads the world in jellyfish breeding and exhibition, having opened the world’s first dedicated jellyfish exhibition hall, ‘Jellyfish Fantasy Hall,’ in 1988. The sight of gracefully drifting jellyfish with mesmerizing projection mapping is so beautiful you’ll lose track of time. The dolphin show against the ocean backdrop is also a must-see, but some reviews mention the glare of the setting sun can be strong, so bringing sun protection like hats or sunglasses will make your experience more comfortable. The aquarium is compactly arranged, making it an ideal spot to combine with Enoshima or Kamakura sightseeing for a single day trip.
Enoshima Sea Candle
📍 Address: 2-3-28 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0036, Japan
The Enoshima Sea Candle (observation lighthouse), soaring atop Enoshima Island, is the symbolic tower of Shonan. Located within the Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden, the observation deck offers a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of Mount Fuji, the Izu Peninsula, and Sagami Bay.
While the daytime views of blue skies and the ocean are magnificent, this spot truly shines from dusk into the night. Especially during winter, the ‘Jewels of Shonan’ illumination event boasts an overwhelming scale, ranking among the ‘Three Great Illuminations of Kanto.’ The tunnel of lights glowing as if suspended in mid-air and the illuminated tower create an incredibly romantic atmosphere, perfect for a date night highlight.
For efficient touring, a clever trick is to use the Enoshima Escar (paid escalator) from the base and purchase a set ticket. This allows you to bypass ticket queues and receive a discount. Also, on your way down, instead of taking the elevator, we recommend descending via the outdoor spiral staircase. It’s a thrilling experience that allows you to feel the sea breeze all around you. In winter, the wind at the summit can be strong and cold, so be sure to dress warmly.
Chigogafuchi
📍 Address: 2-5-2 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0036, Japan
When thinking of Enoshima tourism, one often imagines the bustling approach lined with souvenir shops or the area around the shrines. However, venturing to the island’s ‘backside’ reveals a completely different, rugged natural landscape: Chigogafuchi. This flat rock platform, stretching approximately 50 meters wide, emerged about one meter above sea level during the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, formed by marine erosion.
Behind its beautiful scenery lies a melancholic history. The name ‘Chigogafuchi’ (literally ‘Child’s Abyss’) originates from a legend that states Shiragiku, a ‘chigo’ (page boy) from Kamakura’s Shojoin Temple, tragically threw himself into this abyss after a sorrowful love affair. Selected as one of ‘Kanagawa’s 50 Scenic Spots,’ the expansive ocean and powerful crashing waves truly convey the grandeur of nature.
The absolute best time to visit is at sunset. The collaboration of the ocean surface turning orange as the sun dips into the sea, with Mount Fuji silhouetted against it, is a breathtaking sight that will leave you speechless. However, walking from the entrance of Enoshima involves significant ascents and descents, taking about 30-40 minutes. If you’re not confident in your stamina, a smart move on a fine day is to take the pleasure boat ‘Benten Maru’ for direct access. The rocky areas, especially the green and black parts, can be very slippery, so be sure to wear comfortable sneakers.
Enoshima Iwaya Caves
📍 Address: 2-5 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0036, Japan
Beyond Chigogafuchi, tucked away in the deepest part of Enoshima Island, lies the Enoshima Iwaya Caves. These sea caves, carved over long ages by wave erosion, are considered the birthplace of Enoshima Shrine, where a sacred deity was enshrined in 552 (the 13th year of Emperor Kinmei’s reign). Famous monks who left their mark on history, such as Kobo Daishi (Kukai) and Nichiren Shonin, practiced asceticism here. A legend also states that Minamoto no Yoritomo, prior to establishing the Kamakura Shogunate, secluded himself in these caves in 1182 to pray for victory and the subjugation of the Oshu Fujiwara clan.
The caves are divided into the ‘First Cave,’ with a depth of 152m, and the ‘Second Cave,’ spanning 56m. In the First Cave, you’re handed a candle by staff mid-way, creating an adventurous atmosphere as you navigate the dimly lit passage by its flickering flame. At its deepest point, a romantic legend tells of it connecting all the way to ice caves (such as Narusawa Ice Cave) on distant Mount Fuji.
The Second Cave, on the other hand, features a dragon god illumination themed after the ‘Legend of the Heavenly Maiden and the Five-Headed Dragon’ passed down on Enoshima. The roaring of the dragon echoing from the depths of the darkness creates an attraction-like intensity. It’s a naturally cool space in summer and warm in winter. If you have a free pass or similar, the admission fee (500 yen) might be discounted, so check in advance.
Komayama Park
📍 Address: 790 Manda, Hiratsuka, Kanagawa 254-0913, Japan
After enjoying Enoshima, extend your journey slightly west to Komayama Park, which spans Hiratsuka City and Oiso Town. This area, affectionately known as ‘Shonandaira’ by locals, is a scenic park spread across the summit area of Mount Awatara-yama, standing at approximately 180m above sea level. The unique name ‘Awatara-yama’ (literally ‘Foaming Mountain’) originates from the Soga Monogatari (Soga Tales), where it’s said that Soga Goro, while rushing his horse, caused it to foam at the mouth near the summit from exhaustion.
Here, there are two observation decks: the ‘TV Tower Observatory’ and the newly renovated ‘Rest House Observatory.’ Both offer a spectacular 360-degree panorama overlooking Sagami Bay, Enoshima, the Miura Peninsula, Mount Fuji, and even the Tanzawa mountain range. The night view, especially after sunset, is breathtaking and has even been selected as one of Japan’s ‘100 Best Night Views.’ From the Rest House Observatory, you can beautifully overlook the characteristic curved coastline of Shonan.
Moreover, on the wire mesh of the TV Tower, there’s a tradition where couples attach padlocks to vow ‘eternal love’; this romantic custom has continued for over 40 years. While there were periods of safety concerns in the past, the park is now beautifully maintained with playgrounds and restaurants (like the ‘Sea Terrace’), making it an excellent and safe recreational spot for families and couples alike. On holidays or during cherry blossom season, the summit parking lot tends to fill up quickly, so during peak times, it’s recommended to take a bus or park at a slightly more distant lower parking lot and enjoy a hike up.
Tips for Enjoying Your Shonan Trip 120%
The Shonan area is packed with attractive spots, but without understanding its geographical features and crowd levels, you might experience unexpected time loss or exhaustion. First, Enoshima Island itself is more of a ‘mountain’ than you might imagine, with numerous stairs and steep slopes. If you plan to visit Chigogafuchi or the Iwaya Caves in the deeper parts of the island, be sure to wear comfortable sneakers. In summer, there are few shaded areas, so frequent hydration is essential.
Additionally, two specific precautions for coastal tourist areas are ‘wind’ and ‘kites’ (birds of prey). Especially when eating snacks at observation decks or seaside plazas, incidents of kites swooping down from above to snatch food are frequent. When dining outdoors, it’s necessary to take measures such as choosing a spot with a wall behind you or using an umbrella for protection.
Regarding transportation, Route 134 (the coastal road) is expected to experience heavy traffic on weekends and public holidays. Make good use of charming public transport options like the Enoshima Electric Railway (Enoden) and Shonan Monorail. Utilizing all-you-can-ride tickets like the ‘Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass’ allows you to explore multiple spots affordably and smoothly. In Shonan, where history, stunning scenery, and modern entertainment blend, we hope you find your own special moments.
