A Deep Asian Market Sprawls Beneath Nakano, the Holy Land of Subculture
Nakano is renowned as the ‘City of Subculture,’ but it’s also a multicultural and wonderfully chaotic area home to many international students and long-term residents. Supporting their ‘authentic dining tables’ are the deep Vietnamese and Asian grocery stores and authentic local restaurants scattered around the station.
These spots, where you can feel the vibrancy of Southeast Asia even while in Japan, are indispensable oases for Vietnamese students missing the taste of home and for locals who are passionate about spice-rich cooking and self-catering. This guide goes beyond a mere list of products; we delve deep into the charm of unique local items, their approximate prices, and tips on how to enjoy shopping like a local.
Kofuku Bussan Ten
📍 Address: B1F Nakano Broadway, 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo
On the basement first floor of Nakano Broadway, in a chaotic corner bustling with butchers and greengrocers, suddenly appears ‘Kofuku Bussan Ten,’ a comprehensive Asian grocery supermarket. Stepping inside, you’re greeted by colorful packages of seasonings and snacks directly imported from Vietnam, China, Thailand, and more, crammed into every available space, creating the illusion that you’ve stumbled into a local market abroad.
This shop was founded by Mr. Cho, who came to Japan in his 20s. He originally ran a flower and vegetable shop called ‘Hana Seika’ near Arai Yakushi-mae Station, but in response to earnest requests from international students and foreigners living nearby who wished for ingredients from their home countries, it evolved into the serious Asian grocery store it is today. As its name, meaning ‘happiness products,’ suggests—named with the hope of bringing a little happiness to those suffering during the pandemic—it has become a warm community hub.
If you’re cooking Vietnamese food at home, this place is a treasure trove. You’ll find staple dried pho noodles, several types of nuoc mam (fish sauce), and rice paper for fresh spring rolls, all at affordable local prices. What’s more, don’t miss the frozen section. There you’ll discover ‘frozen catfish,’ mysterious meats reminiscent of authentic street stalls, and dumplings—items you’d never find in a regular supermarket. Even if the packaging is only in the local language and you’re unsure how to use an ingredient, the staff kindly provide cooking tips in Japanese, making it a great place for beginners in Asian cuisine to confidently explore.
BANH MI XIN CHAO Nakano
📍 Address: 1F Maruyoshi Bldg., 2-11-6 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo
Located a short walk along Senko-mae Dori from JR Nakano Station’s South Exit, ‘BANH MI XIN CHAO Nakano’ is an authentic banh mi specialty shop run by Vietnamese brothers. This spot was actually once home to ‘Vn Mart,’ a well-known Vietnamese grocery store. With the changing times, it has transformed into a stylish cafe where you can directly savor authentic Vietnamese street food.
Stepping inside, you’ll find a sophisticated space with a grey-toned interior. From the counter seats at the back, you can watch trains pass by, and you’ll often see long-term residents and international students enjoying a relaxed time or seeking a taste of home. The shop’s name, ‘Xin Chao,’ means ‘hello’ in Vietnamese, and true to its name, it offers a welcoming atmosphere with friendly service.
The absolute must-try is their banh mi, featuring perfectly crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside French bread generously filled with Vietnamese ham, liver pâté, pickled daikon and carrot (namasu), and fresh cilantro. One bite releases an aromatic explosion of spices and herbs, bringing back memories of street food stalls in Vietnam. Also highly popular are the fresh spring rolls served with nuoc cham (a sweet and sour fish sauce-based dipping sauce), and hearty beef pho available as a set menu. This vibrant spot is perfect for a satisfying local lunch after a tiring ingredient hunt or a weekend meal.
TSURUGA COFFEE Lab.
📍 Address: TAS NAKANO 103, 6-27-12 Honcho, Nakano-ku, Tokyo
After stocking up on delicious Vietnamese ingredients, be sure to stop by ‘TSURUGA COFFEE Lab.,’ quietly nestled near Shin-Nakano Station. This is a specialty Vietnamese coffee shop that prides itself on using coffee beans directly sourced from farms in Vietnam’s Dalat region.
Vietnam is famous for its coffee style, using deeply roasted Robusta beans, slowly brewed with a traditional phin filter (cà phê phin), and mixed with generous amounts of condensed milk. This shop offers a cup that maximizes the authentic brewing method and the fresh aroma of their farm-direct beans.
After being enveloped by the intense aromas of nuoc mam and spices at a local grocery store, grab a sweet and rich Vietnamese coffee—reminiscent of the cool breeze of the Dalat highlands—to go, and enjoy a leisurely stroll through the streets of Nakano. Such a truly local way to spend a day promises to be a blissful experience for locals and foreign residents seeking a little spice in their daily lives.
Tips for Enjoying Nakano’s Local Markets 120%
When shopping for Vietnamese and Asian ingredients in Nakano, you might feel a bit lost if you approach it with the same expectations as a typical Japanese supermarket. Firstly, many products change packaging with each import batch, and their display locations can shift daily. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t be shy; the quickest way to find it is to ask the staff or fellow international student customers, ‘Do you have this?’
Furthermore, fresh herbs like cilantro, lemongrass, and mint vary greatly in freshness and stock depending on the delivery timing. Visiting during stocking times, such as on a weekend morning, increases your chances of finding fresh local produce. And above all, if you encounter an unfamiliar seasoning or a mysterious frozen food, embrace ‘a spirit of adventure’ and just buy it. That’s the biggest secret to enjoying a deep local life in the wonderfully chaotic city of Nakano.
