Tokyo’s Nakano is a mecca for subculture, attracting travelers both domestically and internationally. However, this city’s charm isn’t limited to its famous Broadway or bustling shopping streets. Just a short walk reveals a diverse character, including vast historical sites from the Edo period, a somewhat peculiar and intellectual ‘philosophy theme park’, and cutting-edge chill spots loved by locals.
This time, we’ve carefully selected five parks and historical sites that truly stand out as ‘tourist attractions’ for visitors to Nakano, blending deep history with a local atmosphere. We’ll introduce their profound highlights and tips for exploring, proving they are more than just resting places.
Nakano City Tetsugakudo Park
📍 Address: 1 Chome-34-28 Matsugaoka, Nakano City, Tokyo 165-0024, Japan
Opened in 1906 (Meiji 39) by Dr. Enryo Inoue, a philosopher known as the founder of Toyo University and a yōkai researcher, this is a unique ‘philosophy theme park’ in Japan, created to visually express his philosophical ideas.
Developed over approximately 15 years, the vast grounds feature 77 ancient buildings and stone structures with complex names derived from philosophy and religion, such as ‘Shiseido’, ‘Rokukendai’, and ‘Zettaijo’. For travelers, its greatest appeal is the mysterious sense of exploration, much like being lost in an RPG dungeon. Walking through the park with a map, searching for hidden stone pillars and bronze statues among the trees, is a highly stimulating intellectual experience.
While it blossoms as one of Tokyo’s premier cherry blossom viewing spots in spring, it remains relatively quiet and calm during other seasons. The terrain is rich in hills and stairs, offering beautiful views of the Myoshoji River, so it’s best to visit with comfortable walking shoes, such as sneakers.
Philosophy Garden
📍 Address: 1 Chome-33-34-28 Matsugaoka, Nakano City, Tokyo 165-0024, Japan
Tucked away in the quiet plum grove area of Tetsugakudo Park, across the Myoshoji River, is the ‘Philosophy Garden’. This is a group sculpture created by Nandor Wagner (Waguna Nantooru), a Hungarian-born sculptor who naturalized in Japan, and was donated to Nakano City in 2009 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the re-establishment of diplomatic relations between Japan and Hungary.
In the plaza, sculptures of great historical figures from across cultures and eras, such as Abraham, Christ, Buddha, and Laozi, are arranged in concentric circles. This arrangement symbolizes ‘eternal peace for humanity’ and ‘mutual understanding of different cultures’. Standing at the center of this circle of great figures, seemingly conversing with each other, one cannot help but deeply ponder one’s own life and human society.
A crucial point for travelers to know is that ‘photography around the Philosophy Garden in the plum grove area is generally prohibited’. Instead of aiming for social media-worthy shots, confront the artwork with your own eyes, not through a lens, and let its serene and sacred atmosphere imprint upon your heart.
Nakano City Momijiyama Park
📍 Address: 2 Chome-5 Nakano, Nakano City, Tokyo 164-0001, Japan
About a 7-minute walk from Nakano Station’s South Exit, this park with undulating terrain is adjacent to ‘Nakano ZERO (Momijiyama Culture Center)’ and the Nakano Public Library. As its name suggests, it’s a magnificent spot for autumn leaves, but it also boasts a major attraction that draws visitors year-round: a real C11-type steam locomotive, preserved statically within the park.
The jet-black SL, which once ran in the Tohoku region, has an overwhelming presence, evoking a sense of nostalgic romance from the Taisho and Showa eras. A bridge spans the valley-like topography, and the park is integrated into the daily lives of locals as a ‘refreshment loop’ for those tired from studying or reading at the library.
While it’s a tranquil space away from the hustle and bustle of the station area, the dense trees can make it feel a bit dim depending on the time of day. To fully appreciate the beautiful SL and the interesting terrain, it’s recommended to take a stroll with a drink in hand on a clear, sunny day.
Nakano Dog Mansion (Okakoi)
📍 Address: 4 Chome-8-1 Nakano, Nakano City, Tokyo 164-0001, Japan
In a corner facing the sidewalk within the current Nakano City Hall grounds, several dog statues are arranged, relaxing in various poses. At first glance, they might seem like just cute monuments, but this spot is, in fact, an extremely important historical site crucial to understanding the Edo period.
Under the ‘Laws of Compassion for Living Things’ (Shorui Awaremi no Rei) issued by the 5th Shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, a massive facility called ‘Okakoi’ (or ‘Dog Mansion’) was built in Nakano to protect Edo’s stray dogs. Its vastness covered approximately 300,000 tsubo, equivalent to over 20 Tokyo Domes. It featured feeding areas, puppy nurseries, and even dedicated veterinarians, housing up to 100,000 dogs at its peak. This deep history reveals that its enormous annual maintenance cost, equivalent to over 12 billion yen in today’s money, was covered by the common people’s taxes.
Although abolished immediately after Tsunayoshi’s death, its legacy can still be seen in old town names around Nakano 4-chome, such as ‘Kakoi-machi’ (Enclosure Town). When exploring Nakano Station’s North Exit, be sure to pause here and find solace in the stark contrast between the immense scale of history and the playfully frolicking dog statues.
Nakano City Nakano Shikinomori Park
📍 Address: 4 Chome-13 Nakano, Nakano City, Tokyo 164-0001, Japan
About a 7-minute walk from Nakano Station’s North Exit, this vast grassy disaster prevention park is adjacent to ‘Nakano Central Park’, surrounded by office buildings and university campuses. This area was once the aforementioned ‘Dog Mansion’, and in the Showa era, it housed the Nakano Army School, followed by the Police University, making it a historical forefront of Nakano throughout various periods.
Currently, it thrives as an urban oasis nestled among skyscrapers, bustling with students, families, and couples. Beyond weekend picnics, it’s famous as a venue for high-energy large-scale events like the ‘Sichuan Festival’ and ‘Oedo Beer Festival’. The park hosts stylish cafes, convenience stores, and rotating food trucks, making it a local’s favorite ‘chill time’ to enjoy takeout food on the lawn or terrace seating.
In summer, water play in the refreshing canals and fountains is popular. However, because it’s a large open space surrounded by tall buildings, ‘building winds’ can be strong on some days. If you’re spreading out a leisure sheet, taking precautions against the wind will make your stay more comfortable.
Explore Nakano Further! A Time Travel Journey Connected by History
When sightseeing in Nakano, walking the streets merely as a ‘subculture town’ yields a completely different perspective than walking it with the historical background we’ve introduced.
The former site of a massive dog mansion where 100,000 dogs once roamed during Tokugawa Tsunayoshi’s era, which later became the Nakano Army School for rigorous training, has now been reborn as ‘Nakano Shikinomori Park’ where people relax on the lawn with craft beer. Moreover, if you venture a little further, you can touch the spiritual world of people from the Meiji era at ‘Tetsugakudo Park’, built by intellectuals of the time.
The true charm of Nakano lies in its mosaic blend of magnificent past history and modern, free-spirited, and comfortable culture. We encourage all travelers to grab their favorite takeout drink and enjoy a time-traveling stroll that transcends eras.
