Shimanami Kaido
📍 Address: Shimanami Kaido, Japan
Connecting six islands (Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, Oshima) floating in the Seto Inland Sea with seven bridges, the Shimanami Kaido is a route approximately 60km long, stretching from Onomichi City in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture. It’s known not only for cars but also as Japan’s first dedicated bicycle and pedestrian road crossing a strait, and was even selected by CNN as one of the ‘World’s 7 Best Cycling Routes.’ The exhilarating feeling of cycling with the sea breeze, gazing at the ‘archipelago beauty’ woven by the emerald blue sea and the green islands dotting it, is an experience unique to this place.
Far from just a transit route, each island boasts its own deep-rooted history and culture. Innoshima and Oshima were once strongholds of the ‘Murakami Suigun’ (Murakami Pirates) who dominated the Seto Inland Sea. Omishima, known as the ‘Island of the Gods,’ houses the head shrine of all Oyamazumi Shrines in Japan. Ikuchijima is famous as the birthplace of domestic Japanese lemons. Each island is a star-studded tourist destination in its own right. Whether you prefer a quick drive to visit scenic spots or an in-depth exploration of back alleys by bicycle, the greatest charm of the Shimanami Kaido is its flexibility, allowing travelers to enjoy it in a style that suits them.
However, a common pitfall for travelers is the ‘elevation difference between bridges and islands.’ Since the bridges spanning the sea are at a high altitude, the access roads leading from the islands to the bridges are all uphill. Those who are not regularly active might find themselves too exhausted to enjoy the scenery if they plan to cycle the entire route without preparation. Therefore, if you’re not confident in your stamina, we recommend cleverly combining ferries and buses, or focusing on island hopping to only the islands that interest you most.
Island-Specific Charms! Must-Visit Local Eateries & Deep Spots
When you visit the Shimanami Kaido, it’s a shame to just pass through! Each island hides vibrant, passionate establishments and breathtaking views that can only be experienced there. Here, we’ve carefully selected three particularly noteworthy spots for you to stop by.
Mukaishima: Step Back in Time to Showa Retro at ‘Goto Inryosui Kogyosho’
Mukaishima is the first island you reach when crossing by ferry from the Onomichi side. Here lies ‘Goto Inryosui Kogyosho’ (commonly known as Marugo), a business with over 90 years of history, founded in 1930 (Showa 5). They manufacture and sell traditional bottled ramune, cider, and milkshakes. The retro-atmosphere shop is a popular resting spot for cyclists. The crisp, fizzy taste of a cold cider after working up a sweat is exceptional. It’s a heartwarming, deep spot where you can also enjoy local conversations with the owner.
Ikuchijima: Exquisite Sweets from the Birthplace of Domestic Japanese Lemons
Setoda district (Ikuchijima) is a citrus island boasting Japan’s largest lemon production. A definite must-visit is ‘Shimanami Dolce Honten,’ a specialty handmade gelato shop. The gelato, made with local ‘Setoda lemons’ and ‘Hakata salt,’ is refreshing and invigorating for a tired body. Enjoying it on the terrace while gazing at the Seto Inland Sea is pure bliss. Also, for souvenirs, the freshly baked lemon cake from ‘Shimagonoro SETODA’ is highly recommended. Its fragrant, jam-infused dough is wildly popular and can only be purchased here.
Oshima: Seto Inland Sea’s Premier Scenic Spot, ‘Kirosan Observatory Park’
‘Kirosan Observatory Park’ on Oshima, the island closest to Imabari, is one of the top scenic tourist attractions on the Shimanami Kaido. Located at the summit of a mountain approximately 300m high, the stylish observatory designed by architect Kengo Kuma offers a panoramic view overlooking the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, the world’s first triple suspension bridge, and the currents of the Seto Inland Sea. Dusk and nighttime, when the bridge is lit up, are the best times to visit. However, the road to the summit is quite steep, so if you’re going by bicycle, be prepared (or consider an e-bike).
Common Pitfalls for Cycling Beginners and Realistic Strategies
For travelers who think, ‘Since I’ve come all the way to Shimanami Kaido, I want to cycle it!’, we’ll explain practical tips to avoid common mistakes.
Utilizing ‘E-bikes’ and the Importance of Fitting
Numerous public and private rental cycle shops are scattered along the route, but ‘E-bikes’ (electric-assist sports bicycles) are overwhelmingly recommended for beginners. As mentioned, you need to climb hills every time you cross a bridge on the Shimanami Kaido, and headwinds can further deplete your energy. With an E-bike, you can conquer hills with a smile, allowing you to fully enjoy the spectacular scenery. Also, when renting a bicycle, choosing a shop that thoroughly adjusts the ‘saddle height’ (fitting) is an absolute prerequisite for a comfortable journey.
Combating the Biggest Foe: The ‘Sore Butt Problem’
People unaccustomed to sports-type bicycles will inevitably face the ‘excruciatingly sore butt problem.’ If butt pain overshadows the beautiful scenery, it defeats the purpose. As a preventive measure, wearing inner shorts with cushion pads or bringing a gel-padded saddle cover is a real local secret. If the pain becomes unbearable, don’t push yourself; take a longer break at a cafe along the way, or have the courage to ‘warp’ ahead by putting your bicycle on a ferry.
Navigating with the ‘Blue Line’ and Hidden Routes
A ‘Blue Line’ is drawn on the left side of the road along the cycling course, guiding you from Onomichi to Imabari, so you won’t get lost even on your first visit. However, if you have time, we recommend intentionally deviating from the Blue Line and taking a ferry to ‘Yumeshima Kaido’ (such as Iwagi Island and Ikina Island). Here, you’ll find a more relaxed, nostalgic atmosphere unique to these islands without bridges, which has become a quiet trend among travelers seeking a deeper local experience.
