Matsue Castle
📍 Address: 1-5 Tonomachi, Matsue, Shimane 690-0887, Japan
Matsue Castle is one of only 12 ‘original castles’ remaining nationwide and is designated as a National Treasure. Built by Horio Yoshiharu, a samurai who served Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu, its main feature is a ‘simple yet sturdy’ construction strongly emphasizing practicality in battle over lavish decoration. With wells and salt storage inside the castle, and defensive features like stone drops still intact, one can truly feel the essence of a samurai who survived the Sengoku period.
When visiting, be prepared for the ‘steepness of the stairs’ leading to the keep. They were intentionally built at a steep gradient for defensive reasons, with many visitors stating they were ‘twice as hard as imagined.’ However, once you reach the top floor, out of breath, a magnificent 360-degree view of Matsue city and the beautiful Lake Shinji awaits. The view from the keep, with the wind blowing through, will instantly sweep away the fatigue of the climb.
Furthermore, the charm of Matsue Castle is not limited to its keep. For history buffs, we highly recommend extending your walk behind the castle towards ‘Shiominawate.’ Old stone walls and steps remain prominently, and walking along the quiet promenade by the moat, you can hear the chirping of wild birds nesting in the trees. If you have time, combining it with a ‘Horikawa Pleasure Boat Tour’ is a popular way to enjoy the castle from a different perspective.
Adachi Museum of Art
📍 Address: 320 Furukawacho, Yasugi, Shimane 692-0064, Japan
This is truly a world-class garden museum, having been selected as ‘Japan’s best’ for over 20 consecutive years by a US Japanese garden specialty magazine. True to the words of its founder, Zenko Adachi, ‘A garden is also a painting,’ the diverse garden groups, including dry landscape gardens and white sand & green pine gardens, incorporate distant mountains as borrowed scenery, creating perfect compositions from every angle.
As you walk through the museum, you’ll notice ingenious designs everywhere where window frames act as picture frames, making the garden scenery appear like ‘living Japanese paintings.’ The passionate aesthetic, where a small elite team of gardeners meticulously tends to the garden down to the millimeter every day, truly reveals its profound brilliance only when experienced in person.
The collection is also first-class, with masterpieces like Yokoyama Taikan’s Japanese paintings and Rosanjin Kitaoji’s pottery, offering plenty to see. Although many tour buses arrive shortly after opening, causing crowds, the museum is very spacious and barrier-free, allowing you to appreciate it at your own pace. During your visit, savoring matcha tea and traditional Japanese sweets in a tearoom overlooking the garden with beautiful ceramics is the ultimate luxury. It’s a famous spot that shows a completely different face in each season, making you want to ‘visit again in another season.’
Susa Shrine (Susa Omiya)
📍 Address: 730 Susa, Sadacho, Izumo, Shimane 693-0503, Japan
Susa Shrine, also known as Susa Omiya, is one of Izumo’s foremost ancient shrines and a powerful ‘power spot,’ its name etched in the ‘Izumo Fudoki’ (ancient record of Izumo Province). Among the many shrines nationwide dedicated to Susanoo-no-Mikoto, this is a special sacred site, believed to be ‘where Susanoo-no-Mikoto ultimately laid his divine spirit to rest.’ Stepping into the grounds, enveloped by deep forest, you’ll be overwhelmed by the crisp, pure air.
Beyond the powerful presence of the main hall (a Shimane Prefectural Designated Cultural Property), built in the distinctive Taisha-zukuri architectural style, the greatest highlight is the ‘Great Cedar Tree’ standing behind the main hall, estimated to be about 1300 years old. This colossal tree is so vast it obscures the sky when you look up, and countless worshippers gently place their hands on it to feel the breath of mythology.
Around the shrine grounds, ‘The Seven Wonders of Susa’ legends are told. Particularly famous is ‘Shio-no-i’ (Salt Well), where Susanoo is said to have drawn seawater to purify the land. It’s a mystical well believed to be connected underground to the Sea of Japan (Inasa-no-hama) near Izumo Taisha, and its water is said to have a faint salty taste. Access by public transport often involves long waiting times for buses, so travelers who wish to immerse themselves deeply in the world of myths without worrying about time are strongly recommended to rent a car.
Oni-no-Shitaburui Gorge
📍 Address: Une, Misawa, Okuizumo-cho, Nita-gun, Shimane 699-1511, Japan
Nestled quietly in the mountains of Okuizumo, ‘Oni-no-Shitaburui’ is a V-shaped grand canyon, approximately 2km long, carved out of black biotite granite over many years by the Umahi River, a tributary of the Hii River. Designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument, its dynamic landscape of strangely shaped rocks and giant boulders piled up powerfully showcases the raw strength of nature.
This unique name comes from a romantic legend recorded in the ‘Izumo Fudoki.’ Once, a beautiful goddess named Tamahime-no-Mikoto lived here. A ‘wani’ (which refers to a shark or crocodile in ancient texts) from the Sea of Japan fell in love with her and came to visit her every night by swimming up the river. The phrase ‘wani ga shitaburu’ (meaning the ‘wani’ adores her) is said to have transformed into ‘Oni-no-Shitaburui’ (literally, ‘ogre’s tongue trembling’).
It’s a hiking course through a deep forest, but a barrier-free promenade is fully equipped along the gorge, allowing even wheelchairs and strollers. Highlights include a walk on the ‘Shitaburui “Koi” Suspension Bridge,’ which is 45m high and 160m long, as well as ‘Rakuruiwa’ (Tear-Drop Rock) which looks like an ogre weeping, and ‘Shitogatana-iwa’ (Sword-Testing Rock), split in two. It’s a breathtaking spot with gentle greenery in spring and beautifully vibrant autumn leaves. However, as it’s in the heart of nature, bear sightings have been reported, so carrying a bell or walking in a group while chatting is a safe way to enjoy it.
Tonomachi Street
📍 Address: Ushiroda, Tsuwano-cho, Kanoashi-gun, Shimane 699-5605, Japan
Tonomachi Street is located in the heart of Tsuwano, known as ‘San’in’s Little Kyoto.’ The Edo period town planning remains intact along this street, with ‘namako-kabe’ (sea cucumber-patterned walls) and white-walled samurai residences, and quaint stone pavements creating a beautiful, picturesque scenery wherever you point your camera.
The biggest symbol of Tonomachi Street is the vibrant Nishikigoi (ornamental carp) gracefully swimming in the canal along the road. The sight of large, plump carp swimming in schools in the clear water is an absolute highlight not to be missed when visiting Tsuwano. In early summer, white and purple irises bloom, and in autumn, magnificent ginkgo trees turn golden, with the seasonal colors beautifully reflected on the white walls.
Historical buildings such as the Catholic Church and the ruins of the Han school ‘Yorokan’ are also dotted around, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll while feeling the weight of history. Compared to major tourist destinations like Kyoto, it is less overly commercialized, offering a gentle and tranquil atmosphere. For lunch, if your timing coincides with tour groups, restaurants can get crowded, so it’s best to shift your meal time slightly or research eateries in advance for a more comfortable experience.
[Column] Tips for a Deeply Enjoyable Tour of Shimane Prefecture
Shimane Prefecture’s tourist spots are spread across a very wide area, from the Izumo-Matsue area to Okuizumo, and even Tsuwano in the western part of the prefecture. Therefore, it’s no exaggeration to say that ‘utilizing a rental car’ is an absolute must for travelers to efficiently and deeply experience the atmosphere of Shimane.
For example, on the way from around Izumo Taisha to ‘Susa Shrine,’ the changing lush rural landscape outside the car window itself becomes a prelude to the world of myths. Moreover, the Okuizumo area, where ‘Oni-no-Shitaburui’ is located, has limited public transportation access, so driving while enjoying the mountain scenery, where the history of ‘tatara’ iron-making remains, is the greatest pleasure.
Instead of just ‘seeing’ each spot, if you prepare a little beforehand by learning about the legends rooted in the land (such as those from the Izumo Fudoki), the giant rocks and ancient trees before your eyes will take on completely different meanings. Not packing too much into your schedule and creating ‘blank spaces’ to take a breath at a cafe or tearoom is the biggest secret to truly feeling this mystical land of Shimane.
